Decorating Your Older Home for Comfortable Living

Decorating an older home can be a real challenge. Most of us don't de facto want to live the way our ancestors did. The aim is to get the flavor of the era you wish to project without the ache and aggravation. old cushion is not noted for its comfort. old beds tend to be too short for modern bodies and most of us prefer an inner spring or foam mattress to one stuffed with straw or horsehair. Although I have cooked on an iron wood stove and thoroughly enjoyed it in the depth of winter, there is nothing to recommend it in July. So where do you draw the line between authenticity and modern life?

Fortunately you can get modern upholstery, with modern foam, coil decks and cushions, in older styles and fabrics. Unless you are trying to get a museum room, it isn't essential to copy the customary styles exactly. Be true of proportions, but any cushion piece which is a first-rate style will blend with antiques, or reproductions. Fabric choices can give an old look and are available in reproduced patterns made from modern, low maintenance fabrics. If you have antiques, avoid the need to put matched pairs of everything. Our ancestors loved that balanced look and many of us still find that a comfortable look to live with, but if only your upholstered pieces match, they will draw attention away from your show pieces.

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The exception, as always, is in a formal room. If you are living in a home from the 1700's and want to get the flavor of the era, you will want more formalized seating patterns. However, the newer trend in historic houses is to have furniture from any eras from the customary built date to represent. Our ancestors were thrifty. Furniture was hand produced and costly, so people didn't tend to pitch pieces which were out of style. It wasn't until mass produced, uncostly furniture became widely available that people started dumping Grandma's pine table in the chicken house, or slapped a coat of green paint on the solid cherry drop leaf and put it on the front porch.

Generally, keep your upholstered pieces subdued but try for the exact style (or a modified version) of the window treatments and case pieces. Wing chairs have been popular for 300 years, but make sure yours are comfortable to sit on before you determine you have to have them. Our ancestors had much great posture and liked sitting very straight. first-rate styles of modern furniture keep the lines of the old, but have a great slant to the backs. The real supervene of the room can be created by how you decorate your walls, floors and windows, and by using accessories creatively.

Decorators are divided about such modern adjuncts as kitchen appliances, Tv's and sound systems. My feeling is, good fabricate blends with good design. Some of the newer appliances are beautifully designed and our ancestors would have made that stainless steel, side by side refrigerator with ice and water on the door, the showpiece of the house so I am not a big fan of attempting to hide large modern appliances behind wooden doors and cupboards. I do think they tend to look great in stainless or black but that's a personal opinion. The irregularity to the kitchen appliance rule is for houses built in the last century when kitchen appliances were becoming common. Reproductions are available in the styles of the 20's, 30's, 40's and 50's and can make a de facto clever kitchen which is fully functional.

My feeling about Tv's and sound systems is similar. If you don't have a media room, there are hundreds of styles of armoires which will hide the Tv and look like a piece of old furniture. choose carefully. They can be overwhelming. However, if you want the Tv to sit out or hang on the wall, go for it. You can soften its stark modernity by the things you sit colse to it.

So when you determine to redecorate and give your home a more duration feel, keep these things in mind.

Lighting is available in any style staggering and will give an supervene of authenticity. Conversion rails are available to develop old beds and to maximize comfort. Reproduction wallpapers are easy to find and are divided into the eras in which they were popular. Classes on painting techniques and stenciling can be taken at your local home store. The library is a great source for popular styles of all eras.
Once you have done a slight explore into the look you are trying to create, adapt it to your own needs and decorate in the spirit of that era instead of trying to generate a room which hasn't changed in 150 years.

Contributions for this report from On The Go 4 U fabricate consultant, Suzanne Copenhaver who has years of caress decorating less than excellent spaces.

Decorating Your Older Home for Comfortable Living

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My Pilot Light Won't Stay Lit - What Now?

I went to a Heating and Air Conditioning customer's home the other day. They had called me to tell me that their heater was not coming on. It is December and getting colder in northern California. I am a kind guy so I headed over there after I terminated with my regular job.

I arrived at the home and went to where the heater is placed in a closet in the home. (yours maybe in the attic, basement, or garage) I removed the door and found a 30 year old Heating unit. This unit has a standing pilot light, a flame that burns continuously, and it was not lit. After trying to light the pilot light unsuccessfully I thought about that pilot light would not stay lit.

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The older Heating furnaces with standing pilot lights have a thermocouple, that is designed to sense the pilot light flame. That is how the pilot stays lit when you remove your hand from the dial, while trying to relight the pilot. If the thermocouple fails the pilot will not stay lit and the burners will not light so the furnace will not heat the house. You can visually check the thermocouple as well as the pilot flame. Look at the pilot flame while holding the knob in the start position.

1. Is the pilot flame floating (if it is have a Heating serviceperson check the gas valve)

2. Is the copper lead bent or kinked

3. Is the thermocouple insulation damaged

4. Is the thermocouple tip dirty

You can clean the tip by lightly sanding it. Also make sure it has not slid down out of the flame. If you feel the flame is aimed properly and the thermocouple is clean and there are no descriptive signs of damage then damage is on the inside, remove it. You can take it to an appliance parts and service dealer where they will sell you the definite part or you can call a heating service person to come replace it for you.

My Pilot Light Won't Stay Lit - What Now?

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Raising Rabbits for Meat - Why Rabbits Vs Other Animals

Should you grow rabbits for meat? Let's take a look at the facts and details to make an educated decision Why Rabbits? Is it worth it What's involved? Dispelling misconceptions.

When raising animals for food there are many considerations Lets take a look at why I think rabbits are the best animal for the family to yield at least some of their own meat. If you decree to raise rabbits for meat, you will need to read other longer articles to tell you all you need to know. The scope of this description is to give enough of an summary to understand what is complicated and why you would or would not want to raise rabbits.

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Production: Essentially when one grows an animal for meat there are any factors that go into the basic efficiency of the process. It is on it's most basic level the process of having an animal turn whether waste or vegetation into meat. The demand then becomes what animal can conveniently turn waste or vegetation into meat. Vegetation is cheap, but waste is free. Vegetation you can readily grow in your back yard is also free. It stands to reason if you can feed your animal fully or in part from what is free your likely ahead of the game. Another basic factor is what division of it's own weight can a mom yield in offspring in a year. There are a few other factors to consider. Here are the questions I think we should ask and answer: How considerable is the meat produced? How suitable or problematic is the killing, skinning (or plucking), of the animal? How much space is required? How much noise does the animal make? Is it legal to have on my property? How easy is it to successfully breed?

There are essentially two domestic animals that are in contention to be the most sufficient at turning vegetation into meat, they are the chicken and the rabbit. At the end of one year a cow will have 1 calf that has grown to weigh 40% of the weight of the mother. Comparatively, The offspring of a mom rabbit will have grown to weigh 1000% (10X) the weight of the mom or more in a years time.

Food for the rabbits: Rabbits can eat rabbit food sold by Purina and other similar animal food producers. Only problem there is that it will probably cost you more than the meat is worth to go this route, still since animal feeds have nutrients specifically balanced for single animals it might not be bad to give rabbits a partial diet of rabbit feed. The bulk of what one would feed rabbits is Alfalfa. They don't do well on only lawn grasses. I would plant part of my back yard with Alfalfa and when I wanted to harvest some to give to the rabbits, just run over the patch with a bagging lawnmower and give the clippings to the rabbits. Easy and free! You may also buy alfalfa by the bale. Additionally you may supplement the rabbits diet with anyone green from a organery that population don't eat for example the green parts of a carrot plant. Of policy any waste vegetables from the bottom of your refrigerator would also to the rabbits. If all fed to the rabbits was free the meat would be essentially free. (After you get set up to keep them.)

Value and capability of the meat: Rabbit meat is high quality. It is among the bottom in fat and cholesterol of any out there. I think it tastes good too.

Slaughter and preparing of the meat: This is an area where the rabbit easily shines! They are easy to kill, and you can choose what size rabbit you want to grow so that one harvested rabbit is the same whole of meat as your family needs for one or two meals. Fully grown domestic rabbits after butchering ordinarily weigh in any place in the middle of 2 and 10 pounds depending on breed. Of policy larger breeds can always be harvested at any point. This is easily prominent Chickens are in the same boat here, in that one animal makes a meal for 1 family for 1 day. Collate this with a pig, cow, or lamb. Since you can't eat all of the larger animals at once they require frozen of all the meat for hereafter use, a major inconvenience relatively speaking. And how do you go about killing a larger animal. You basically need to live somewhere where it is legal and practical to shoot it. Thoughprovoking on to ease of butchering/preparation, rabbits are the best. Comparing rabbit to chicken the rabbit wins. This is because chicken,unless you skin it, requires plucking, (a considerable chore), rabbit skin can ordinarily be pulled off in one piece beginning at the neck after decapitation and being pulled level off toward the tail with the paws being first cut off. When done right it is quite convenient.

Space required: The best way to grow rabbits for food is to keep them in a hutch with a roof and screen bottom made from wire mesh with ¾ to 1 inch squares and thick wire. This way the waste falls out for easy clean up. The wire must be thick so as not to damage the rabbits feet. Chicken wire for instance is no good because the wire is too fine. This would cause too much weight per quadrilateral inch to be applied to the skin of the rabbits feet and cause pain or damage The hutch should be about 1.75 times the distance of the body of an adult rabbit nose to tail. So if it is a small breed say 1 foot in distance the hutch would be 1' 9" by 1"9" for a large breed 2' long you would be seeing at 3' by 3' or a wee larger. It is best to keep the rabbit all it's life in the cage. This is not cruel at all. Don't think that rabbits want the same things in life as a man or for that mater a dog. Rodents are genetically programmed to like to be in there dens because that is where they are safe. They only go out because they have to feed. If additionally it is never let out, it will not even know what being "out" is. I once had a pet rat. I would open the cage door in the evenings when I was watching Tv. When I opened the door to the cage it would come out and run the perimeter of the apartment. He would look for food even though he had plentifulness in the cage, because this is what he was programed to do. After he made his rounds he whether came to lay on my chest or went back into the cage. He did not want to stay out. They like it in the cage because they feel safe. They are not people... They don't get bored like we do and are not programmed to roam like a dog. To keep a dog in a cage all it's life would of policy be terribly cruel, not so for rodents. You may elect to give your breeders some time out of the cage as they will be alive a long time, but the non breeders will only be alive ordinarily until they are large enough to harvest. It is best if they just stay in the cage all their life and don't even know what it is to go out. In one corner of the hutch there should be a nest for the rabbit and kits (babies) to sleep in. It would be a wood or sheet metal box terminated on top and all sides except for a hole big enough for the rabbit to go in and out. It is a plus if the top of the nest is movable so you can look in if you want.

How much noise does the animal make? Again in this regard the rabbit is king and this is one reason they are better than chickens. easily if your rabbits are out of sight, and you clean up the droppings from under the cage usually to keep the smell down, it is potential that your neighbors might not even know you are raising rabbits. If they are terrified they will squeal and cry. Other than that they are basically silent. Collate this with chickens which make clucking sounds all the time, and of policy if you have a rooster it crows every morning, for me a total deal breaker.

Legality: Rabbits are considered pets, so if you live in the suburbs you can't have a cow, pig, goat, or a bunch of chickens running around. If your rabbits are in there cages in a shed, there will probably be no problem. Note: rabbits need cool climate, so if you keep them in a shed it must be very well ventilated in the summer so the climatic characteristic in the summer does not go above the ambient climatic characteristic in the shade, which is already hot for the rabbits.

Breeding: Here again the rabbit is king. The rabbit is prolific to the point of being legendary. Most importantly the mom rabbit takes perfect care of the young up until they are weened. You can have a pretty good provide of rabbits with one breeding male and three females.

Conclusion: seeing at the facts I can't see how the man who wants to grow some of there own meat can logically come to Another windup than the rabbit is the classic choice. I find raising rabbits to be a great way to spend less money on food.

It is a big plus if you also have a garden, because all the green parts not eaten by the family can be given to the rabbits, and in turn the rabbit manure is used to fertilize the garden.

Raising Rabbits for Meat - Why Rabbits Vs Other Animals

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Understand The Tv Dimensions Chart For good Viewing delight

Watching television offers population an occasion to bond with their families as well as relax after a hectic day at the school or office. Most population desire to have the biggest television screens as inherent for their total enjoyment. When it comes to watching, it is worth noting that the size of the screen does not matter it should be acceptable to the location where you will sit. Succeed this tv dimensions chart and make watching television a truly worthwhile experience.

Standard 4:3 Tv Size Watching Guide

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When watching from a television with a diagonal screen size of 13", you should be watching from a minimum length of 2.6 feet up to a maximum of 5.2 feet. For a 19" television screen, the viewing length should be 3.8 to 7.6 feet. If watching on a 20" monitor, you should be 4 to 8 feet away for optimum viewing pleasure. For a 24" television monitor, the correct length is 4.8 to 9.6 feet.

With a 27" television monitor, the correct length is 5.4 to 10.8 feet. The ultimate viewing experience from a 32" screen is best achieved at 6.4 to 12.8 feet away from the television. In a 36" screen, total enjoyment is inherent at 7.2 to 14.8 feet. Lastly, for the acceptable 40" monitor, the correct viewing length is 8 feet to 16 feet.

Widescreen 16:9 Tv Viewing Guide

This is the tv size chart guide for a widescreen 16:9 monitor. For a 26" screen television, the viewing length should be 3.3 to 6.5 feet. A diagonal 30" screen size is 3.8 to 7.6 feet. A 34" diagonal screen gives the most enjoyment at 4.3 and 8.5 feet. For a 42" monitor, the viewing length is from 5.3 to 10.5 feet.

For a 47" monitor, the minimum viewing length is 6.3 feet and the maximum is 12.5 feet. The best viewing length for a 55" monitor is from 6.9 to 12.8 feet. For the 60" and 65" monitors, the distances are 7.5 feet and 15 feet, and 8.1 feet and 16.2, respectively.

In general, the length in a quarterly television screen is 3 to 6 times away. A widescreen television has a higher resolution so population watch at a closer distance. This would give them an unabridged view of the pictures. Viewing on a widescreen diagonal size television is best at 1.5 times near the monitor. Watching more than three times the length could Succeed to you missing the foremost elements of the show.

For bedrooms, the ideal size of television monitor is 30" and lower. They are not, however, the ideal size of television screen in the living room. At the same time, television screens with bigger resolutions will not fit in a small bedroom.

In the case of tube Tv, the normal rule is the bigger monitor, the bulkier it is. If you are planning to buy a big television monitor, see to it that there is enough room in the middle of the sides. When it comes to tv size chart, keep in mind that the size of the screen and viewing length should never be discounted.

Understand The Tv Dimensions Chart For good Viewing delight

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Convection Ovens

No matter how kitchen-challenged you may be, we have all at one time or someone else operated an oven at some point in our lives. Most habitancy have taste with the former oven; that is, the beast of a engine that lives in the angle of the kitchen. It's the big thing with all the knobs and dials that signify temperature, and when you open it you see huge racks supported on grooves at the side. You've probably used it to bake cookies; maybe a roast or two, and some have probably mistakenly tried to use it for instant noodles. For those habitancy with bad experiences with former ovens, there is good news as technology has developed greatly in recent years.

One of the more useful developments in oven-making comes in the form of the convection oven that is increasingly favorite as a form of cooking. As opposed to a quarterly oven that relied on the pure brute force of heat to cook food, a convection oven ads the valued property of air movement to circulate heated energy colse to anyone you are cooking. The result is faster cooking times in increasing to food that comes out more evenly and generally juicier. By involving air at a constant pace, temperatures are kept to the minimum level needed to cook food, and yet the job gets done more swiftly because of the constant movement and transfer of energy.

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Convection ovens are becoming increasingly favorite as they are sold separately or in some cases manufacturers incorporate convection technology into a former design. anyone the case, it has brought on new waves of recipes and tastes that take into list the added benefit of hot-air circulated cooking. There are even microwave ovens that incorporate convection fans to make their execution more efficient; although you would still not want to bake with one.

Convection Ovens

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Why Front Load Washers Need He Detergent

Since the introduction of the front-loading washing machine into the North American market their sales have unmistakably exploded. Like most people, you probably bought one because of the recommend savings.

The claims about their efficiency are true. When operated properly you can save energy, water, and money. Plus they do a remarkable job of washing your clothes.

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But, using the wrong detergent can quickly destroy any hopes of savings. Along with the front loaders remarkable popularity has come a immense amount of misunderstanding about the detergent they require.

A front-loading washing machine needs a special detergent. It's called He (High Efficiency) detergent. Without He detergent your washer will not clean properly. Using regular detergent may even cause your front loader mechanical problems.

He detergent is a type of non-sudsing detergent. In fact, while operating, the machine approximately appears not to have any detergent inside.

Unfortunately, we have become so used to looking suds in our old washing machines that we mistakenly delineate the proximity of suds to allowable operation. Nothing could be farther from the truth.

An old fashioned top loader washes your clothes by enduringly tumbling them straight through a full tub of water. Your front loader works differently.

In a front loader your clothes are picked up by the vanes inside the drum, lifted to the top of the drum, and then dropped into water laying at the bottom of the drum. This collision of clothes and water will dislodge the dirt from the clothing fibers. Later the drum stops turning, the water flows out the bottom of the drum via the pump, taking both water and dirt out to the household drain. Finally the drum is spun at very high speed to take off the final amounts of water, dirt and detergent from the clothes. This front-loading recipe of cleaning your clothes is both easy and dependable.

But, this easy recipe stops working if there are too many suds being produced by your laundry detergent.

If you use regular detergent in your front loader excess suds will be produced by the interaction of the detergent and tumbling water. These unwanted suds will gather at the bottom of the wash drum where they will lie on top of the water. Within minutes these suds will take the form of a big fluffy cushion. This upholstery hinders clothes from reaching the water. As your clothes fall from the top of the drum to the bottom they hit the suds upholstery rather than the water. The supervene is a very poor wash.

Even owners of front loaders who are using the literal, detergent can misunderstand how to use it properly. Not looking any suds they think they need more detergent. They keep expanding the amount used per load until suds Finally appear. This can be a costly mistake that again results in a poor wash.

Using too much detergent is as bad as using the wrong detergent. Extreme amount of detergent can furnish symptoms such as leaking, vibration, noisy operation, and poor spinning.

If you have been using the wrong detergent (or the allowable type incorrectly) in your front load washer try the following suggestions. Run the machine straight through a amount of cycles using hot water. This should help expel the old detergent. It regularly takes 3 or 4 cycles to wash away the old detergent accumulated inside the machine. Or add a stock that will take off the build-up of old detergent. One such stock is called Glisten. It is ready straight through most appliance parts wholesalers. Some grocery store chains now comprise it in their laundry detergent section.

As a matter of fact it is a good idea to use a cleaner such as Glisten in your front loader every few months. It is an reasonable form of regular maintenance. A small amount should also be added to the detergent dispenser drawer to take off any residue from this area.

So if you think your front loader is not working as well as anticipated, look to your laundry detergent. If it does not say He on the label -- switch immediately.

Then buy a box of the allowable He type detergent and you may be pleasantly surprised.

Why Front Load Washers Need He Detergent

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